OctoPrint-FirmwareUpdater VS Calibration-Shapes

After reading some more seems like you CAN do it, but I was either too scared or didn't know about it in Mid-2021

Firmware Updater Useful for flashing firmware to printer without having to use sd card. Frees up an sd card for me

I have 2 skr 1.4 turbo boards and before I switched to klipper I always updated my firmware using the firmware updater plug in for octoprint. On the github page it guided you through setup for that board family. https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/firmwareupdater/

I followed the install instructions from this link. I installed the python 3 compatible version of heat shrink.

Method 3 (Through Octopi) - I installed Anaconda to download the firmware updater for Octopi found here (https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/firmwareupdater/) but cannot install it through the command line. I get "python setup.py egg_info did not run successfully.". Tried upgrading pip to no avail.

if you have an Raspberry pi you can try https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/firmwareupdater/

I'm not sure if this OctoPrint plug-in works with the neptune 2 but it's worth a shot. https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/firmwareupdater/

You need a plugin called Firmware Updater.

Only if you already have Binary File Trainsfer setting enabled in Marlin. So you might be stuck since that's not normally enabled. But when it is enabled, it does work. I only update via octoprint anymore. https://github.com/OctoPrint/OctoPrint-FirmwareUpdater/blob/master/doc/marlinbft.md

When in doubt run some calibration prints, I made my own but this model is probably better https://github.com/5axes/Calibration-Shapes/wiki/Support-Test

The test case I used was the calibration cube in the in the [Calibration Shapes Plugin](https://github.com/5axes/Calibration-Shapes/wiki/Calibration-Cube-XYZ) printing the walls outside to in.

Also, you could try out a retraction tower: https://github.com/5axes/Calibration-Shapes

You should look into the Calibration Shapes plugin for Cura. It'll let you generate many different towers quickly and the GitHub for it has the post-processing scripts that make them work.

I generally recommend printing a temperature tower to find the correct temperature for your filament and the settings you currently use. Pick the segment with the best result in bridging and surface.

The first thing I would recommend is to level your bed again and the second thing is to print a temperature tower so that you can find the right temperature for the filament and your printing profile.

CalibrationShapes has a bed level pattern I like to use. Keep printing and adjusting your corners until you have the perfect squish, and you will find your adhesion will be much better!

Personally, I always use this project for the temperature tower which also starts from the highest temperature and then drops lower and lower.