Marlin_Ender3v2
mainsail
Marlin_Ender3v2 | mainsail | |
---|---|---|
102 | 53 | |
12 | 1,525 | |
- | 1.4% | |
9.9 | 9.4 | |
over 2 years ago | 3 days ago | |
C++ | Vue | |
GNU General Public License v3.0 or later | GNU General Public License v3.0 only |
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Marlin_Ender3v2
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ender 3v2 upgraded to sprite pro hitting dual screw gantry
From what I'm reading, mriscoc's firmware appears to be a bit more polished and offers even more features than Jyers. Have a look at their page - https://github.com/mriscoc/Marlin_Ender3v2/releases/latest From what I'm reading you can change the bed dimensions via gcode command and also in the advanced settings menu. I'm going to try this route despite having already downloaded all the software to compile my own jyers firmware..
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Installation and Configuring for an Ender 3 S1
Download the bin file from here https://github.com/mriscoc/Marlin_Ender3v2/releases/latest.
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Anybody know whats up with my 3dtouch? Just installed
By any chances are you using the Jyers firmware? Because that firmware works horrible with a lot of probes. Try the Professional Firmware, I never had a probe crashing problem with that one.
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Why does my z offset keep changing?
Once you tram the bed, are you doing a mesh? I use UBL (Unified Bed Leveling) to do a 15x15 mesh that takes approximately 225 points of readings. If you are using Jyers firmware, which I highly recommend) or Professional firmware by mriscoc, both rimwares based on Marlin but are more rich in features than the base Marlin firmware, you can view the mesh on your display and see where the high/low spots are. The mesh can be saved to your EEPROM and used without having to redo the leveling process all the time. This is, of course, providing that your bed is not shifting and you wait for the bed to cool down before removing the prints so it doesn't mesh of the leveling. I am not sure about the Professional firmware (because I don't use that one) but I do know the Jyers firmware has a bunch of precompiled .bin files for all the boards and for many different configurations.
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EEPROM and detecting of SD card not working correctly after upgrading to 2.4.7 motherboard
https://github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases or https://github.com/mriscoc/Marlin_Ender3v2/releases
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Octprint Levelling report vs UBL on printer
I am using a modified Jyers firmware from here: https://github.com/mriscoc/Marlin_Ender3v2
- Micro-Swiss direct drive install.
- Ungraded the bed leveling springs.
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How do you save your Z offset settings?
i use https://github.com/mriscoc/Marlin_Ender3v2 and i am very happy with it
- CR-Touch - Mesh values are never saved correctly. Bed leveled but the values change after it homes/creates a new mesh.
mainsail
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Windows updated 8 hours into a print. I’m gonna cry.
Klipper is awesome and once it’s installed and up and running I can control my printer via my LAN network and upload STL’s and control the printer using the Mainsail Web interface. https://docs.mainsail.xyz
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Successor to JyersM firmware?
I prefer Klipper. It requires another computer (such as a raspberry pi) but it is so much easier to modify and make changes. It also has built in leveling functions and other great benefits. https://docs.mainsail.xyz/ https://www.klipper3d.org/
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Got a Ender 3 S1 Plus (300x300) for cheap. Leveled the bed manually, but realized that all 4 corners are much higher (0.412) than the middle. Is this bed doomed?
It's https://docs.mainsail.xyz/
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Downloaded klipper 2 hrs ago need help
My recommendation if your just setting up: do yourself a huge favor and do not use OctoPrint. Instead I recommend using Mainsail of Fluidd. They’re both great web interfaces designed specifically for Klipper. Very fast, lightweight and take advantage of all available Klipper functions. Octoprint is very resource hungry.
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Help me build a Dream Printer... what would you do?
Convert that thing to a corexy via Mercury One, throw a Stealthburner on it, and get yourself a raspberry pi to run Klipper/Mainsail.
- Problem printing holes - leveling issue?
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First time Klipper user here, Printing is EXTREMELY slow
In the past I used OctoPrint, but now I moved to Mainsail, because it has a better ui and some plugins are directly build in. You can install Kiauh and use it to install Mainsail or Fluidd next to OctoPrint.
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Print speed limited
Personally I prefer Mainsail. But Fluidd is also popular.
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Upgrading Anycubic mega zero 2.0 with wifi
If you can get ahold of a Raspberry Pi, MainsailOS is a prebuilt sd card image that has everything preinstalled.
- Just checking, but can an Orange Pi (not Raspberry Pi) run OctoPrint?
What are some alternatives?
Marlin - Marlin is an optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform. | Many commercial 3D printers come with Marlin installed. Check with your vendor if you need source code for your specific machine.
fluidd - Fluidd, the klipper UI.
Ender3V2S1 - This is optimized firmware for Ender3 V2/S1 3D printers.
OctoPrint - OctoPrint is the snappy web interface for your 3D printer!
Marlin - Marlin is an optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform. Many commercial 3D printers come with Marlin installed. Check with your vendor if you need source code for your specific machine.
FluiddPI - FluiddPi - A Pi image with Klipper, Moonraker, Fluidd and Web Camera support pre-installed.
KlipperWrt - A guide to install Klipper with fluidd, Mainsail or Duet-Web-Control and webcam stream in OpenWrt. Mainly created around the Creality Wi-Fi box but any OpenWrt running device with similar specs will work just fine.
crowsnest - Webcam Service for multiple Cams
klipper - Klipper is a 3d-printer firmware
octo4a - Use your old Android device as an OctoPrint server.
Configurations - Configurations for Marlin Firmware
moonraker - Web API Server for Klipper