keyboard-pcbs VS MxLEDBitPCB

I found this great model on GitHub: https://github.com/JKing-B16/keyboard-pcbs/tree/master/amoeba-king/openscad. I did a test print and the part that locked the PCB in was too big. I made some careful adjustments (slashed it with a knife repeatedly) and the board fits now (the end result: https://imgur.com/y1Yf1K5). However, I worry that the quality of the snap depends a lot on the tolerances of the printer. I was wondering if any keyboards with similar mounts exist?

I really like the idea of single-switch PCBs. I found the repo with all of the different Amoeba styles. Unless I missed one, none of them match the Cherry MX Low Profile footprint. I'm finding these switches are not widely used. Now I'm on the hunt if there is a different single switch pcb which does support them.

Did you have any pcb/design in mind that accommodates screws? Personally I'd recommend against doing this because you're going to need a lot of screws and a lot of filament to make the web thickness tall enough to accommodate screw inserts or tapped holes. When I used Amoebas in the past, I generated the case with the MX nubs and without the built in hot swaps (those are really difficult to print as well). The mill-max sockets hold on well to the switch, and I imagine the kailh ones should hold on well too. If you're using Amoeba King PCBs, there's a really nice generator for the key hole here that will snap the PCB into place, but it does not generate a full case: https://github.com/JKing-B16/keyboard-pcbs/tree/master/amoeba-king/openscad

Some use single key pcbs (like amoeba king) for the wiring. But I find them more work then just wiring the switches by hand. It does allow for leds to be added though.

I started my split journey by building a dactyl manuform with amoeba king pcbs. Now I use a charybdis nano because it has an integrated trackball :D

For pcbs I would either use single switch pcbs like the amoeba royale or king. As for flexible pcbs I'm only aware of this project but I'm afraid they are only sold on the creators etsy page. Maybe someone else is aware of something similar.

If you want to use sk68xx leds I recommend the Amoeba kings. Same Form factor but made for the SMD leds with longer legs (e.g. Sk6812 mini-e) for easier soldering.

To be clear, I printed these guys.

If possible I would add those solderable bridges to choose which side is Din and Dout because they will be connected in series and having to cross a wire over the PCB every other row is annoying. The amoeba kings have that and it made the wiring easier and cleaner in my opinion.

I'd say that the Amoeba family are the most popular right now though. I just ordered some Amoeba kings through JLCPCB for about $10 to try out on a dactyl flex. (You have to ask for a 5x5 layout to get 25 on a PCB, so it can be super cheap). Wylderbuilds has a great wiring guide for those. I think you can also buy from wylderbuilds if you don't want to go the PCB fabrication route. (He's got a stellar reputation and is active here on the subreddits).

I've tried the MXLEDBitPCB personally for a dactyl and it worked great. (I used the "Container" variant). My dactyl case holes were a tiny bit too big, but once i got the hotswap sockets in, it held the keys well enough to stop the wiggle. My only complaint is that the 5x5 PCB layout made it a pain to break them apart, and it left little fiberglass nubs i had to sand down. The labeling was a bit easier to understand than the Amoebas, but it also not as fancy. The big advantage these have, is they support through-hole diodes, as opposed to tiny smd diodes.

dometyl can generate keywells with hotswap socket slots, you can hot-glue/crazy-glue them in place or just yolo them in place. I prefer to use 1u pcb's, since soldering wire to them is much easier. The MxLEDBitPCB atlanta support hotswap sockets and you can have many manufactured very cheaply by jlcpcb.com.

These PCBs: https://github.com/swanmatch/MxLEDBitPCB/tree/master/container

MxLEDBitPCBs have a Choc variant, too: https://kbd.news/MXLEDBitPCB-1060.html

Also worth noting that Amoeba Royale has very small LED solder pads compared to mxledbit's "container" ( https://github.com/swanmatch/MxLEDBitPCB/tree/master/container ) board.

. The trouble? I got the Altana board made which only supports sk6812 mini LEDs (for an underglow I suppose) and do NOT support the sk6812 mini *-e* LEDs which tend to be the first result that come up if you just search sk6812 mini. See this wonderful github thread of another fellow keyboard enthusiast making the same mistake. In fairness the support rubric is pretty clear so I was just being stupid/hasty/whatever.

I much preferred the idea of SK6812MINI-E LEDs, but couldn't source a PCB that worked with chocs and also the MINI-Es. I decided to try handwiring one, then found the MxLEDBitPCB: the choc version supports MINI-Es, and it looked as if it might make handwiring a little more straightforward for a relative newbie.

It's per-switch using PCBs from this repo: https://github.com/swanmatch/MxLEDBitPCB

Hey all! I'm trying to put together a handwired dactyl build with hotswap and RGBs in each switch using the MxLEDBitPCB Amoeba.

MxLEDBitPCB altana from jlcpcb $6 with shipping - you may want to choose the container version if you want backlighting but the wiring if more involved so I did not go this route