GP2040 VS pangolin

I think they use https://github.com/FeralAI/GP2040

I've had a great experience with Arduino Pro Micro's running the DaemonBite firmware, and the RPi Pico GP2040 firmware should be similarly great. Both have extremely low latency. The Brook Universal board is another good one. Other than that, I usually just use either a DualShock 3 pad over USB or a wired 360 pad. I also like the iBuffalo SNES pad and Logitech Precision pads.

My third revision of this and looking for feedback to improve. I'm using an secondary USB-C port here to test this schematic before using it on other builds where the Pico placement is constrained by board clearances and mounting holes. The Pico is running GP2040, https://github.com/FeralAI/GP2040, which allows the device to work on multiple systems. I'm new to PCB design and have grabbed some examples posted here before and hopefully following guidelines in the wiki.

It might also be worth checking out the pi pico as the brains, though I believe you need a second piece of hardware to make it work on ps4. The pi pico itself should only be 10$~ not sure how much the ps4 adapter thing would cost. The firmware to look into is https://github.com/FeralAI/GP2040

Hi, does anyone know how to add a PS Home button to your controller? I have a DURAL hitbox which uses GP2040 Firmware (https://github.com/FeralAI/GP2040). I was planning on going to an offline event and needed to make my controller PS4 proof for which I was hoping to use a PS3 to PS4 adapter. However I would still need the PS Home button because PS4 is weird. If anyone knows a solution help would be greatly appreciated.

Microsoft totally does. That's why GP2040, an open source controller firmware, doesn't support Xbox or PS. The way it's typically done now is to have a require a real controller to handle the authentication, with the 3rd party input in between the real controller and the console (passthrough in that chart)

I'm a fan of using aluminium extrusions & laser-cut aluminium panels.

Check out my Pangolin design. https://github.com/henrebotha/pangolin It uses aluminium extrusions (8020 profiles) to make a sturdy frame. Even if you still want to use acrylic as the structural material for the panels, having a sturdy (and cheap!) aluminium frame will help a lot.

I have an enclosure design that uses laser-cut and 3D-printed parts, and keyboard switches. https://github.com/henrebotha/pangolin

Here's my DIY enclosure design. https://github.com/henrebotha/pangolin It should be doable for €100 or less, depending on various factors. It doesn't require special tools; all the parts are either off-the-shelf, or laser cut/3D printed by online services. No weird screws or anything like that. I really tried to make it easy to build anywhere in the world.

I designed a cool DIY metal one that supports an acrylic top so you can add art. You don't need anything special, just a screwdriver; the parts get laser-cut. https://github.com/henrebotha/pangolin

The latter option is better, because it guarantees perfect operation of any MX-style switch, but it requires a specially-designed (or, at minimum, modified) enclosure. Especially if you want the buttons to not be super duper tall. I designed such an enclosure (https://github.com/henrebotha/pangolin), but it's a hassle.

I don't love fully 3D-printed enclosures, so I designed a metal one that uses aluminium extrusions for the frame and laser-cut aluminium panels for the top & bottom. You can take a look at it, you might learn some stuff. https://github.com/henrebotha/pangolin

I don't sell 'em, it's open source plans to make your own. Basically just order some parts online & assemble it with a screwdriver. https://github.com/henrebotha/pangolin

I can guide you in making one, if you want. Infinite possibilities for customisation. https://github.com/henrebotha/pangolin My build worked out to 26 mm thick, but you can go even thinner if you e.g. don't use an acrylic cover, or choose a thinner sheet.