Calibration-Shapes VS Kcalibrator

When in doubt run some calibration prints, I made my own but this model is probably better https://github.com/5axes/Calibration-Shapes/wiki/Support-Test

The test case I used was the calibration cube in the in the [Calibration Shapes Plugin](https://github.com/5axes/Calibration-Shapes/wiki/Calibration-Cube-XYZ) printing the walls outside to in.

Also, you could try out a retraction tower: https://github.com/5axes/Calibration-Shapes

You should look into the Calibration Shapes plugin for Cura. It'll let you generate many different towers quickly and the GitHub for it has the post-processing scripts that make them work.

I generally recommend printing a temperature tower to find the correct temperature for your filament and the settings you currently use. Pick the segment with the best result in bridging and surface.

The first thing I would recommend is to level your bed again and the second thing is to print a temperature tower so that you can find the right temperature for the filament and your printing profile.

CalibrationShapes has a bed level pattern I like to use. Keep printing and adjusting your corners until you have the perfect squish, and you will find your adhesion will be much better!

Personally, I always use this project for the temperature tower which also starts from the highest temperature and then drops lower and lower.

Linear Advance (Kcalibrator), if direct drive. Print slower 15-20mm/s, if bowden.

Try Kcalibrator instead, the Marlin's tool is awfully bad. Find K factor for one printing line and one speed and one plastic (e.g. 0.4×0.2mm, 60mm/s, PLA), it depends on too many things. Then recalibrate the flow (again, each spool will be different). Update your slicing profile with these new values. Don't slow down the outer walls.

Try this Kcalibrator instead, for one particular set of parameters (one speed, one width, one filament).

Linear Advance compensates accelerations/decelerations on corners, when printing head almost stops, but printer still extrudes the same amount of hot plastic. All to make even lines without bulges. It's a firmware algorithm that lets you print faster with the same quality. The best tool I found is Kcalibrator.

The official calibrating tool is meh, because it depends on the flatness of the bed surface. I always use this Kcalibrator, it takes something like 20-30 minutes per test, but the result is clearly visible (most of the time). LA is a must-have feature if you print faster than 15mm/s.

Run this https://github.com/ArtificalSUN/Kcalibrator to check from 0.07 to 0.11 (add a bit more to the range like from 0.05-0.13), with 0.005 step, one wall.

Try this one https://github.com/ArtificalSUN/Kcalibrator. Calibrate LA for each speed you use, then redo the flow.

Try this Kcalibrator instead, first layer is a brim and it doesn't affect the results.

I used this one: https://github.com/ArtificalSUN/Kcalibrator