Marlin-Ai3M-2.0.x VS Slic3r

To add to this. Download Marlin firmware, flash to your printer and then manual mesh level. Info here: https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M-2.0.x

Also, E3D has a different temp sensor, so you will need to update the firmware. I did https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M-2.0.x, and I had to experiment with axes being reversed, updating flags in the firmware configuration. And I had to calibrate the extruder afterward. So be prepared, this is not easy. But only with this firmware, I was able to start printing decently.

That was not enough alone but thank you for your advice! I end up installing Marlin for Anycubic https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M-2.0.x and tuning extrusion. Now it works like a charm.

Marlin 2 FW by DavidRamiro for anycubic

This one right: https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M-2.0.x ?

here is a exemple https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M-2.0.x#after-obtaining-the-hex-file where it mention the gcodes

https://slic3r.org/ - Slic3r

I split my Boba Fett helmet STL in Slic3r. It was incredibly easy to split the file into 8 parts. The top and bottom halves split at the visor line, then split those pieces into halves and then halves again so they will fit on the bed.

I had luck with this one in my Mac: Slic3r

Prusa slicer is a fork of slic3r, a gcode generator that works for all 3d printers. https://github.com/Slic3r/Slic3r

try using a diffent slicer. either cura or slic3r

If PrusaSlicer doesn't work on your Mac, you should be able to download or compile a version of Slic3r that will.

I use Slic3r where the preview is quite easy to get, but the configuration might be a bit scary to get done (although the defaults are reasonable) as you want to try with adding or removing support material.