Ender-3S1 VS Ender-3-S1-Pro-Firmware

What are those ones? https://github.com/CrealityOfficial/Ender-3S1/tree/3S1_Pro_HighSpeed I thought that everything is there

It may not. What's on the Creality github at https://github.com/CrealityOfficial/Ender-3S1/tree/main/Marlin is Marlin 2.0.8.1, and the config files won't match any other version without changing a few things. The current stable release version of Marlin is 2.1.1. The compiler checks the versioning of all the files, because the way some things work has changed in newer releases. Even the board names for the S1 have changed in later versions of Marlin, because there are at least three possibilities, not just one, and none of them have the same name as the one defined in 2.0.8.1.

That is correct, you either have to use the S1 screen or an E3V2 screen. I remember helping someone with the firmware and they were able to get octoprint working with their setup. Here's the thread. The stock S1 Pro firmware was released by Creality. I think there's a way to get things working with octoprint just by editing some config. I would try that first since it's pretty much free before spending money on getting a different screen.

I would say stay with the stock if it is working for you. When you're ready to dabble with firmware, then sure you could look into the professional firmware, klipper, or even the stock firmware. Creality released the source code of S1 Pro.

Use the S1 Pro firmware. Creality released the S1 Pro firmware. I used this to configure my own firmware for my S1+. The downside of this is it is based on Marlin 2.0.8 and Creality only released the 2.0.8.24. so yeah, this is not the latest firmware since the latest one is 2.0.8.26. A thing to note here, the released S1 Pro firmware has some error in it. You might want to check the pull requests to see the fixes for those errors.

If you're talking about buck converter, I don't see why not. Again, the ideal solution is for the firmware to handle the software PWM for that pin. Klipper does it well already so if you're using klipper or sonic pad, you should be able to just change it through software. If you're using the "professional" or stock firmware, you would need to reduce the speed on the hardware side. I think this is a bug on Marlin based firmware. That's why I only used a resistor, since it's small, cheap, and easy to remove if ever Marlin or Creality fixes this bug. I tried fixing it myself but didn't get that far. If you're interested, here's the issue I posted in Creality's github.

The tricky part for upgrading the heat block is the firmware. If you have the STM32F401 chip, I don't really see any reason why you can't just flash the S1 pro firmware to your S1. I may be missing something so I DO NOT recommend you doing that. Good news, Creality released the S1 firmware. Bad news is, it is still 3.0.3. So it is not the latest firmware. If you are comfortable with building your own firmware, I think this is the cheapest alternative than getting sonic pad. I did this route for my S1 Plus since they also released the S1 Pro firmware which I just edited to work on my S1 Plus.

Here's the one from Creality. Just make sure you're in the s1_pro branch. That branch is broken. so what I would suggest is to create a fork and apply the fix that Pethical made. Let me know if you have any questions about firmware.

hahaha. sorry. but if you're interested, here's the source code for the S1 Pro. The reason why I went this route is because I feel it's kind of a waste of money to not be using the touch screen and buying either the E3V2, sonic pad, or a raspberry pi for klipper. I got nothing to do with the touch screen at that point. so I try to use the stock firmware as much as I could. And yeah. so far it's been good. I was able to put some upgrades that needed some firmware updates.

I am using pro firmware from https://github.com/synman/Ender-3-S1-Pro-Firmware with octoprint no an ender 3 S1 pro

I noticed that with USB printing via RPI / OctoPrint there's odd pauses in teh movements. In my research I've found an issue on Synman's variant of the same: https://github.com/synman/Ender-3-S1-Pro-Firmware/issues/52

I have a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro, and one of the first mods I did was to install some aftermarket firmware. Namely, the "Professional" firmware. I chose the 5x5 point UBL option, so now the UBL routine probes 25 points instead of the normal 16.

I don't know. I can't figure it out lol. https://www.youtube.com/live/pXJ8AJWfTGo?feature=share They were using the plus here but they said for the pro too. Their links didn't work but I didn't find this. https://github.com/synman/Ender-3-S1-Pro-Firmware I don't understand it really though. I'm a noob to all this and apparently I have to flash back to the old firmware, not sure if it's for the screen or for the printer or both. I would love to know how to get it and wtf it is. They've already added the laser function so they say (I use the cr laser quite a bit) bit when I look on GitHub it says the laser doesn't work or untested so I don't want to try it out yet. I did find a feed of two guys who were writing the code and their back and forward of testing the laser was for the falcon I think and not the cr laser

I think they are calling it custom firmware in the live show. https://github.com/synman/Ender-3-S1-Pro-Firmware I think this is it but I'm dumb and I can't follow GitHub or have the balls to compile the files into the correctly named folders 🤣🤣 To be honest they could have been gaslighting us as the links from chat in the LiveShow didn't work. When they were told they didn't work they just reposted the same ones again again lol. https://www.youtube.com/live/pXJ8AJWfTGo?feature=share That's the live show

I think he's referring to synman's Ender 3 S1 Pro Marlin Firmware. Which DOES work with the factory touch screen, but obviously has nothing to do with Klipper.

https://github.com/synman/Ender-3-S1-Pro-Firmware (INCLUDES PLUS FIRMWARE)

I have the s1 plus and also installed the custom firmware from here and use a 25 point ubl. It stands to reason that eventually I should be able to shim out the warp with sticky aluminum tape (like flashing tape) but gosh does it take awhile to re run the 25 pt level every time I add some tape!