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map-machine
Python renderer for OpenStreetMap with custom icons intended to display as many map features as possible
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.. and me FF/Linux.
Parent might like to examine their extensions/network/life choices. I block a shit load of stuff and bizarrely a mapping system used and generated by millions of people just seems to work.
This didn't look very pretty but I still got the menus 8)
$ links "https://www.openstreetmap.org/#map=19/50.93675/-2.63421&layers=P"
Have been using https://opentopomap.org for this for a while, and depending on what you're looking for it still has some advantages: does show the numbers on all height lines (osm only does the 50m one in my area for some reason, leaving you to guess whether the next one is 40m or 60m since that is not always obvious - seems like a key thing for a topographic map), does show the house numbers.
Is this not good? (Genuine question if you tried it. I never used it, I just had it bookmarked because the README looked good.)
https://github.com/enzet/map-machine
OSMand is powerful but the UI can ve overwhelming. Organic maps seem popular https://organicmaps.app/ but I prefer the style of Mapy.cz https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=cz.seznam.mapy