klipper-neopixel VS Klipper4KobraGoNeo

Ok cool. What I'm trying to do is to add a Neopixel ring to the underside of my build plate (don't worry, I've already sorted out thermal insulation so they don't burn) and have it change colour automatically based off certain parameters. I want it white and breathing slowly when it turns on, changing from blue to red while it's heating and between 30⁰ and 60⁰, then breathing red while it prints. Finally it would turn green upon the print completing, and then go in reverse order from red to blue and back to white as the bed cools and lands below 30⁰. I've been researching this shit all day and have started to build a led_progress.cfg as instructed by this page, however, according to this page I can have all kinds of control over the lights.

# more info: https://github.com/digitalninja-ro/klipper-neopixel/blob/master/README.md

I just found this

Another suggestion: in the longrun, I'd highly recommend to flash Klipper, that'll be a real improvement.

And tramming mate, it's all about the tramming in the first place. If a machine is set up well, you avoid sooo many weird issues.. Never trust prebuilt parts lol If you didn't do so yet, consider flashing Klipper, that was the absolute turning point for me which turned them into reliable workhorses :)

Or use Klipper right away.

No, imho it doesn't make sense. Install Klipper, tune in Pressure Advance and Input Shaping and you can crank up the speed already. If that's not enough and you reach the limit of the flowrate of the stock hotend, you can swap in a CHT high flow nozzle etc.

I'd recommend to read thru this chapter for infos about Klipper at the Neo, and this chapter for infos about hardware for the host. If questions arise, feel free to reach out ;)

I'm getting a bit confused about your cfg - could you somewhere somehow share it, so that I can have a look at it? Cuz neither in the example cfg for the Go (which was made by xpeng) nor in my own cfg at my Neo (https://github.com/1coderookie/Klipper4KobraGoNeo/blob/main/cfg/NEO_1coderookie_printer.cfg) is anything about a certain tmc config. So I'm wondering right now if it was necessary and/or good for you to add the uart_pin and the run_current; the way I understood it earlier was that you maybe only would have needed to add the stealthcop_threshold line for enabling that other mode. But I might be wrong, especially cuz I was still a bit in zombie mode this morning and in a hurry as well.. ;)

Ah ok, well, yeah, I wrote some stuff, maybe it helps somehow: https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/firmware/fw_klipper/ About hardware you could use for the Klipper host/printserver: https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/printserver/ Feel free to always dm or email me - if I can help, I will ;)

Are you using Mainsail? If so, you can also adjust the z-offset on the fly for finetuning while printing the initial layer and when saving it, it gives you the choice between save to probe or save to endstop. That'll be saved in the auto generated and commented "SAVE_CONFIG" section at the end of the printer.cfg file then, as you can see here: https://github.com/1coderookie/Klipper4KobraGoNeo/blob/main/cfg/NEO_1coderookie_printer.cfg ```

Mmmmhhh, I like that snake ;) If you want to be able to print faster, maybe check out Klipper for the Neo. You can use Pressure Advance and Input Shaper (= resonance compensation) with it, which allows you to print at higher speeds.

It was probably you, but just in case that wasn't you and it was a coincidence: a kind user just wrote some notes about how to get it running and provided his cfg file as well, you can find it here https://github.com/1coderookie/Klipper4KobraGoNeo/discussions/7