Sherpa_Mini-Extruder VS BeltDrivenEnder3

I had a microswiss setup before this. I'm sure you can edit the files to be able to mount one, but unfortunately, the MS setup is heavy. What I did for this build is use the toolhead from Clehn8ok's EnderWire conversion, but I edited the extruder mount to be able to use a Sherpa Mini.

I say give it time and see if your mood improves. Otherwise look into the Mini Sherpa (https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Sherpa_Mini-Extruder)

The Sherpa mini is an open source extruder (https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Sherpa_Mini-Extruder) you could print and use with the gear and shaft from a original or clone bmg. It is very lightweight and realiable extruder even with flexible filaments.

Here is the Klipper Config from Annex Engineering for the Sherpa Mini: https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Sherpa_Mini-Extruder/blob/master/Klipper_Config_Block.txt

For anyone that might find this post, it ended being a retraction issue. I am using a Sherpa Mini, and the recommended maximum retraction speed is 30 mm/s, which I had set to 50 mm/s.

In my opinion the Mini AB is terrible. I have the mosquito running with a Sherpa Mini extruder and cowling of my own design. But the mini after sherpa works ok. If you can't find another cowling that works, I could modify mine so it fits the larger mosquito. There are other designs out there like the V0VO

https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Sherpa_Mini-Extruder/blob/master/Klipper_Config_Block.txt for the mini, https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Sherpa-Extruder/blob/master/Tall_Bowden_Variant/Klipper_Config_Block.txt for the regular Sherpa. Both are in the 0.3A range. So, change the run_current to 0.35 and hold_current to 0.3 and try again.

Or you can go for "belted Z" that is available on github by kevinakasam. https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3

This is called Z banding which happens on ender 3 style printers with a single Z rod, you can buy a dual Z axis kit but I would recommend Belted Ender 3 mod instead as it will almost remove it completely and is around the same price, more DIY though.

After that, convert your printer to belt driven. The kit's only $25 and easily the best upgrade you could do on that unit. That link has some example prints, all the .stls, and links where you can get the kit

There are also more radical approaches. KevinAkaSam has a mod that foregoes leadscrews altogether, using a system of belts to drive the Z-axis instead. This is still a Cartesian printer, but since there are no leadscrews, there is no leadscrew wobble. It still uses only one motor (like the belted-leadscrew approach above, though it moves that motor to the top of the printer, so you might need a longer cable for it.

Tbh, I think it's more trouble than it's worth. There are several ways to get dual z without dual steppers, and it's less effort that way. My preferred dual z solution is a belted z axis like kevinakasam's mod. https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3

If you are doing this Ender3 mod, then the settings stay the same.

On my V2, once I finished all the pieces for the belted Z mod, I used the old extruder motor to replace the Z axis motor since is is a bit stronger.

You can feel this if you carefully manually turn the lead screw. You will feel more resistance at some points. There are some simple fixes that you can find on reddit for adjusting the bracket. You can also replace that bracket by going to a belt drive. https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3