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Kobos are good. You can load them with your own files and they support a nice range of formats. Before loading EPUBs, convert them¹ for better performance². Old models keep getting software updates for years, and those can improve performance.
¹ https://pgaskin.net/kepubify/
² Though you don’t have to, unconverted EPUBs load fine.
The kobo also has a fantastic aftermarket world of open source software. https://github.com/topics/kobo?o=desc&s=updated
For a while folks were starting to get their own regular distros running on Kobos too but I'm not seeing much follow-through.
The remarkable probably has an edge in overall open source tooling. They definitely have a much better page showing off what's available, https://github.com/reHackable/awesome-remarkable. But Kobo is quite impressive & flexible. Prices are reasonable, the base software is pretty decent, and as you say, software updates just keep coming. I was running an ancient but lovely Kobo Aura HD until a year or so back, a fairly ancient device, & was still getting updates, getting faster/snappier & ever improving navigation/UI. Kobo has been such an excellent company to their users; it's been, ah, "remarkable" to see.