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The two best:
1) Working (professionally) on a project that happens to be open source: https://github.com/metabase/metabase/
2) Coming to a Rails project mostly written by a very senior 7-person team. There was still a fair amount of jank (mostly from seed-round assumptions that weren't holding up when I joined after the Series A) but it still followed The Rails Way and nothing was too gross. It also helped that everyone important was still at the company and available for questions.
PS on (2): Seven of those original eight dev are now gone, including me; the median years of experience has gone from 8-10 to 0-3; the team size is at least 40 and I think more; and my understanding from friends still at the company is that the codebase is in general a flaming mess.
This isn't a codebase that I inherited at work, but an open source library that I used at work which impressed me: Leaflet JS has been around for 11 years, enables web devs to do really complex mapping tasks easily, has zero dependencies, is 39KB of JS (vs 261 for mapbox), is extremely legible, and easily extensible using native JS concepts rather than fancy abstractions. To me it's a shining example of how over-engineered everything on the web is today. You can make an interactive map of the world and have a smaller bundle and simpler code than even the most basic React app.
https://github.com/Leaflet/Leaflet