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Nice guide, I hadn't seen the trick with matching and replacing specific fonts (e.g. -apple-system).
One thing I'd tweak for my own usage though is to use Inter[0] in place of TeX Gyre Heros for the sans-serif font. Inter, as its name suggests, is designed specifically for usage as a screen/UI font and has metrics extremely similar to those of San Francisco, which is the font that Apple has been using for its UIs for several years now. Inter also has broad language support with a wider variety of weights, so there's practically no situation in which it comes up lacking.
[0]: https://rsms.me/inter/
When was this? Did you try Ubuntu 18.04 or later lts? Curious what was wrong with Wayland/Gnome and fonts.
I generally replace the monospace/console font - but i do that on MacOS and windows too.
Tbh I find the lack of decent (tiled) wm (as well as broken display on "low-res" (1440p/QHD) external displays) on MacOS much more frustrating. I make do with yabai, but the hoops one needs to jump through and the resulting fragile setup isn't great.
Hm, now i came across this - so maybe there's a decent fix for that too?
https://www.theregister.com/2021/12/03/apple_m1_drivers/
https://github.com/waydabber/BetterDisplay