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wezterm doesn't let you hide ligatures when under the cursor, something very nice that mintty does. Instead you have to configure a key to toggle ligatures
have you tried https://tabby.sh
What kind of client side decorations are you referring to? I started using kitty the other day and it's been really nice on fedora/gnome/wayland with ligatures. You can take a look at my config here: https://github.com/menuRivera/kitty
Try kitty! It's GPU accelerated, supports ligatures, and has native Wayland support.