dscKeybusInterface VS esp8266_milight_hub

The sensors themselves are relatively easy to defeat, a strong enough magnet in the right position and you can pop a door or window open without tripping the sensor. This specific DSC panel was chosen as the bus protocol was unencrypted(the only reasonable attack would be a playback attack, everything needs a user, master, or installer code), but it would be relatively easy to add an esp8266 behind the wall plate of a keypad. (take notes, this is why you should have motion detectors wired inside, and add latching tamper zones). I don't have to worry about the encryption issue, since the keybus line doesn't go outside of a locked closet, which will probably use the latching tamper preset.

Additional context for anyone that's trying to google the same thing. DSC power series pc1816, pc1832, and pc1864 main boards use this connector for the battery harness, which is difficult to source. (This sub is also relevant as there is a DSC key bus Protocol library for Arduino or espressif boards, this was one of the last boards they made before the bus line was encrypted).

Actually it's not "dated" as much as it's "timeless" :) Things get a lot easier with a serial cable and the DLS software. You can even build your own Envisalink like module that works with Home Assistant, for about $6, see: https://github.com/taligentx/dscKeybusInterface

There is a lot of work done for DSC powerseries keybus interface (not the NEO version): - https://github.com/taligentx/dscKeybusInterface - https://github.com/taligentx/dscKeybusInterface/tree/expander But I cannot find any documentation online for the NEO version.

What's the main goal here? The EnvisaLink™ EVL-4EZR module works really well with home automation like Home Assistant or, if you want a less expensive solution taligentx / dscKeybusInterface is an open source solution which can run on a Wemos D1 mini (< $10). Both of these solutions appear to the DSC panel to be a keypad so unless you exceed the maximum number of keypads for a given panel then you should be OK.

Speaking of DIY, you can build your own for under $10 in components and use opensource software like taligentx / dscKeybusInterface, then monitor yourself with Home Assistant. There is even open source software to recover the installer code. So the options for such an panel are not limited.

I'm wondering because I'm planning to run this project on the system to recover the installer code. I'm a little worried that doing so will start dialing to the old alarm company.

Did you check if https://github.com/taligentx/dscKeybusInterface would support to unlock it? It would only require an arduino and a few days maximum to run (most likely a few hours). I've done it on my panel although it was more recent.

If one doesn't like the $100 cost of Envisalink, with DSC systems there is open source software on GitHub that uses a $5 Wemos D1 mini board and another $1 worth of electronic components (couple resistors and a transistor) to interface directly to the KeyBus and then provides several methods of control.

Or use a Wemos D1 mini ($3 for a chinesium one), 3 resisters to connect directly to the DSC KeyBus along with this firmware and it will send ALL of the data from the Alarm via MQTT! Add an NPN transistor and now you can even arm and control the system via MQTT! All for $3.50 in parts :)

So, I have a few proprietary RF smart lights all around the house. I control these using an ESP project I found in Home Assistant. The problem I'm running into is kids turning off the lights from the switches. I figured the solution would be running relay switches for the smart lights since I want to install some for the dumb lights either way. I read up somewhere that you can run some relays in something called decoupled/detached mode, which allows them to send their state to home assistant, which can toggle the smart bulb.

Using this hub, they work well for controlling WLED (or non WLED) lights, but do take a bit of configuring getting all the buttons configured.

Alternatively, you can DIY a MiLight hub that connects to HA via MQTT, and use any of the MiBoxer/MiLight remotes if they fit your needs.

The easy option is to just get a Zwave or Zigbee remote. With a hub running Zigbee2MQTT or Zwave2MQTT, you can translate the button presses to MQTT and trigger your Tasmota devices. Alternatively, you could set up a Milight hub (which also translates button presses to MQTT topics) and use any of the commercially available Milight remotes as inputs.

The controller puck uses a 2.4GHz RF signal to control the light. I'm just guessing, but I would imagine you should be able to pick up the RF signal from a Milight hub like this. (I use a few Milight RF remotes connected to a DIY hub to control lights through HA.)

(These do require a 2.4GHz RF gateway. You can buy the standalone gateway, build your own, or buy a premade version.)

Anyone have any suggestions? I would prefer Zwave or 433MHz RF based (I have dongles for both attached to my HA box), but open to Wifi or Zigbee for the right solution. Anything cloud based is a hard pass. Same with BT, unless there is a cheap hub, or something I can DIY. (I already have a few ESP32 BT proxies running Tasmota or ESPHome.) IR is less than ideal due to line-of-sight restrictions. I was thinking about setting up this on an ESP8266, paired with one of these Milight remotes, but before putting in an AliExpress order and waiting weeks for delivery, does anybody have any other suggestions? Would this or this work with my 433MHz SDR running RTL_433? The giant antennas were a little off-putting.

I also looked at milight hub with an esp board.

If someone could specifically confirm/deny that the Gledopto bridge works with White bulbs would be great. People have created custom controllers for the White bulbs/remotes (e.g., here) - so I assume the protocol is known or the same.

Before binning off the Milight controller perhaps try this open source hub: https://github.com/sidoh/esp8266_milight_hub